Baselworld 2015: De Bethune

[rc30]

2 модели подготовила компания к Базелю. Будет, разумеется, кое что новое и в течение года.





Первая новинка - вот такая змеюка DB25 Quetzalcoatl:

Quetzalcoatl is a composite name in the Nahuatl* language derived from quetzalli and used to describe the large, precious green feathers of the sacred quetzal bird; and coatl, meaning snake. It is one of the main divinities of the Mesoamerican civilisations and the feathered serpent, its most iconic incarnation, reigned for many long centuries over pre-Columbian America.
This powerful symbol of Mesoamerican culture was the core of worship and sacred rituals. The related myths and legends appear in the writings of the colonial period. In conjunction with the evening star, it was considered to govern the cycle of time from dawn to dusk. This deity of the summer winds was naturally closely associated with agriculture and in particular with corn farming, as well as being the sovereign protector of goldsmiths and artisans, and the inventor of the calendar.
Stemming from an age-old tradition of artistic crafts and engraving, the solid gold dial of the DB25 Quetzalcoatl, exquisitely fashioned by the gifted engraver Michelle Rothen – based on drawings by David Zanetta – is a natural continuation of the brand founders’ research and exploration. Above and beyond fine craftsmanship and the exercise in style, the ultimate aim is to enable owners to wear on their wrist a portion of the history of humankind, steeped in legends, emotions and universal culture.
The symbolic unity around Quetzalcoatl, formed by the sculpted solid gold hands, takes on an almost mystical aura and enlivens the heart of the dial that constantly evolves in tune with the passing of time. The latter is read off by the tip of the serpent’s head, while its tail indicates the minutes. Quetzalcoatl appears coiled in the centre of the model in varying positions in step with the ever-changing times of day. This fascinating vision, magnified by the microlight finishing on the dial centre, endows this creation with exceptional depth and mystery.
The aesthetic construction gives pride of place to an element that is steadily becoming the unmistakable hallmark of the Manufacture: research on materials and the way light reflects off their finishes – at time radiantly glowing like the circular guilloché motif on the central part; and at others matt, such as the soft patina on the hour indicators formed by a series of temples viewed from the sky. Nothing escapes the keen eye of David Zanetta; nothing is too slender, too subtle or too elaborate in this bold endeavour to reproduce several centuries of history within the modest few square centimetres available on the dial. This historical dimension is clearly perceptible thanks to an unusual perspective that provides an aerial view of the ruins of the Aztec temples from the city of Tenochtitlan. This highly personal vision of the archaeological site naturally leads one to step back and adopt a certain observation distance imposed by the higher vantage point.
The various finishes of the mirror-polished bridges adorned with De Bethune decorations highlight the silicon heart of the patented annual balance of Calibre DB2005, alongside a number of innovations and patents from the Manufacture. This mechanical hand-wound movement beating at a frequency of 4 Hertz is equipped with a self-regulating twin barrel ensuring a 6-day power reserve, the famous triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system protecting the regulating organ, a silicon escape-wheel and a balance-spring with flat terminal curve ensuring optimal concentric development.
While some will see it as a model bearing the effigy of a Mesoamerican culture in pre-Columbian America and others will be touched by the symbolism of Quetzalcoatl, all will admire the meticulous care and detail devoted to the engraving.
This benevolent deity that has given rise to countless legends and sacred myths is more relevant than ever in the present age. Symbolising the union of body and mind – by associating Earth represented by the serpent and the Sky depicted by the feathers – it interprets an eminently contemporary theme that will take on its full meaning on the wrist of a few enlightened connoisseurs.

DB25 Quetzalcoatl
DB25AWY
20-piece limited edition

Functions
Hours – minutes
Movement
DB2005 calibre – mechanical hand-wound movement
Power reserve: 6 days
Case
White gold, drum-shaped – diameter 44 mm – thickness 12.50 mm
Attachments: hollowed lugs
Glass: Sapphire crystal, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment
Crown at 3 o’clock, setting in two positions
Back: open – DB2005 calibre – mirror-polished bridges and Côtes De Bethune
Display
Dial: in solid gold hand-engraved by Michèle Rothen and composed of two parts:
hours ring with figures inspired by buildings from the Tenochtitlan Templo Mayor;
and central part with De Bethune microlight guilloché
Hands: in solid gold hand-engraved featuring Quetzalcoatl whose changing position according to time. The snake’s head shows the hours and the tail of the snake indicates the minutes
Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather with pin buckle

DB2005 calibre

Movement: mechanical hand-wound
Functions: hours – minutes
Diameter 30 mm – 173 parts – hand decoration, hand-chamfered and mirror-polished steel parts Côtes De Bethune
Self-regulating twin barrel*
Titanium/platinum balance – balance-spring with flat terminal curve*
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system*
Silicon escape-wheel*
Jewelling: 27 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 6 days

Вторая - турбийон DBS.

Ten years ago, David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet decided to support the Only Watch project – an auction placed under the patronage of Prince Albert II of Monaco on behalf of research into Duchenne Muscular dystrophy – by creating the first DBS, an incredibly high-tech model with an innovative design.
The white gold case of the DBS testified to a new thought process undertaken by the brand founders in terms of ensuring a wristwatch makes an ideally comfortable fit, and marked the start of in-depth work on forging a specific De Bethune functional aesthetic.
The cone-shaped lower lugs, along with the 12 o’clock crown, were subtle details that counter-balanced the almost imposing size of the model that measured 45 mm across at its widest point. Continuing this approach, the pivoting gold plate connecting the upper section of the strap and the case middle was the forerunner of what would later become known as floating lugs – a patented system featuring a spring-type effect that helps adjust to the size of the wrist and its movements.
In 2005, the DBS laid the first foundations of what has now become one of the watch industry’s most innovative and creative R&D labs. Youthful engineers under the guidance of Denis Flageollet have rolled out a number of unprecedented developments, world firsts and the ten patents filed by the Manufacture since its creation in 2002.
The calibre of the original DBS was already packed with innovations and illustrated the expertise and ingenuity of this “grand” little independent firm.
To celebrate the 10th anniversary of this iconic model, De Bethune has equipped the DBS with its tourbillon, entirely emblematic of the extreme precision and performance of its in-house calibres. A 30-second tourbillon features a high 36,000 vph frequency ideal for a wristwatch and is amazingly light at 0.18 grams for a total of 63 parts – of which the lightest weighs less than 0.0001 g and the heaviest 0.0276 g. These important factors, guaranteeing the precision and reliability of the mechanism despite the abrupt and random nature of wrist movements, are made possible by the incorporation and the underlying technical mastery of materials such as silicon and titanium.
The dial providing a fascinating window onto DB2019 calibre reveals a wealth of technical and subtly decorated details. Held by a finely titanium annular bridge, the tourbillon at 6 o’clock performs an endlessly fascinating mechanical ballet. It appears to be suspended in mid-air, standing out against the anthracite deltoid-shaped bridges and delineating a time read-off zone by means of spherical steel indicators hand-polished and blued using the age-old flame-blueing technique.
Subtle touches of blue, cleanly-cut hands and hour-markers, shimmering reflections playing across the materials, ruthenium-coated Côtes De Bethune contrasting with silver-toned finish of the minutes ring: the aesthetic construction of the DBS built around the extreme technical sophistication of the movement explores the technical and artistic skills of the Manufacture and celebrates ten years of exclusivity, excellence and beauty.

DBS Tourbillon
DBTW
10-piece anniversary limited edition

Functions
Hours – minutes – power reserve indication on the back – Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’silicon/titanium Tourbillon 36,000 vph
Movement
DB2019 calibre – mechanical hand-wound movement
Power reserve: 5 days
Case
White gold, distinctively shaped – 45 per 42.5 mm – thickness 11 mm
Attachments: integrated cone-shaped lugs in white gold
Crystal: sapphire crystal, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment
Crown screw-down at 12 o’clock – setting in two positions
Back: solid, in white gold – linear power-reserve indicator
Display
Dial: anthracite – titanium bridges with ruthenium finishing – spherical hour indicators in hand-polished flame-blued steel – silver-toned minutes ring – Côtes De Bethune – De Bethune 30” silicon/titanium tourbillon, 36,000 vph
Hands: hand-polished and flame-blued steel
Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather with pin buckle

DB2019 calibre

Movement: mechanical hand-wound
Functions: hours – minutes – De Bethune 30” silicon/titanium tourbillon, 36,000 vph – 5 days power-reserve indication on the back
Diameter 30 mm – 298 parts – hand-crafted finishing and decoration – Côtes De Bethune Titanium bridges with ruthenium treatment
Self-regulating twin barrel*
Silicon/white gold balance – balance-spring with flat terminal curve*
De Bethune silicon/titanium 36,000 vph 30-second tourbillon*
Silicon escape-wheel*
Jewelling: 35 jewels
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 5 days

[alby]