Richard Mille на Watches&Wonders 2014

[rc30]

Буквально в двух словах. Собственно Richard Mille и привез в Гонконг всего 2 новинки - RM 56-02 Sapphire Tourbillon и RM 57-01 Phoenix and Dragon Jackie Chan. Остальное они уже показывали.













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[peyot]

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Пресс-релизы и характеристики на эти модели, если интересно, выложу позже.

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[rc30]

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TOURBILLON RM 56-02 SAPPHIRE

At Richard Mille, the fact that a tremendous challenge has been won is never a valid reason to stand still and be complacent. The introduction of the RM 056 Sapphire Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph three years ago was a watchmaking milestone of technical achievement; never before had such a complex case design for such an intricate movement been manufactured in pure sapphire. This debut was followed by the RM 56-01, which put the stakes even higher with a baseplate, bridges and third wheel additionally created from sapphire. Today, a cutting-edge expression of horological transparency created expressly for the Watches & Wonders event in Hong Kong is presented with the magnificent RM 56-02 Sapphire Tourbillon and its new movement, taking cues from the mechanical architecture of the RM 27-01 Rafael Nadal and its cable suspended movement. By incorporating this cabled movement design within a world of transparent sapphire, an ultimate expression of weightlessness and transparency is evoked within the world of extreme horology.
In this fashion the baseplate of the RM 56-02, created from grade 5 titanium, is entirely suspended within the sapphire watchcase by specially developed single braided cable of only 0.35mm thickness, woven within a system of 4 pulleys on posts at the movement’s corners and another 6 pulleys placed along the movement’s periphery. The tension of the cable is perfectly controlled by a miniature ratchet at 9 o’clock. This entire cable unit is attached to a separate indicator located below 12 o’clock allowing an easy visual inspection of the cable tension, to ensure that it is always operating within the designated norms.
Other parts of the movement have also been optimized for transparency thanks to the experience gained with the aforementioned versions; in this case Richard Mille’s engineers have added to the previous use of sapphire movement parts a new design of winding barrel bridge, tourbillon and center bridges in sapphire. This fluently executed technical challenge is a crowning achievement of the sapphire family of timepieces within the high scaled variety of creativity to be found within the Richard Mille collection as an entity.
Sapphire, created from subjecting aluminum oxide crystals (Al2O3) to high pressure and temperature environments, is transparent due to the purity of its composition and has a hardness of 1800 Vickers (9 Moh’s) making it virtually scratch resistant by materials other than diamond. The tripartite case of the RM 56-02 is milled and ground from blocks of solid sapphire by the prestigious and highly specialized experts Stettler in Lyss, Switzerland, who had the difficult task of creating these movement parts and the unique, wrist hugging, ergonomically curving tripartite Richard Mille case. These engineering and technical challenges are self evident when we examine the reality of creating something inimitable like the RM 56-02: 40 days, 24/7 of continuous machining are required in order to produce one case followed by 400 hours of machining and finishing for the different movement bridges.
The case of the RM 56-02, with anti-glare protection on both front and back bezels, is waterproof to 30 meters thanks to the utilization of two transparent nitrile O-rings assembled with 24 spline screws in grade 5 titanium. The partially translucent strap created from Aerospace Nano® by Biwi SA, exclusively for Richard Mille, provides a silky and almost organic responsiveness to the skin that perfectly complements the exquisite ergonomic perfection of the RM 56-02 on the wrist.
The RM 56-02 will be released in a limited edition of 10 examples worldwide.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS OF THE TOURBILLON RICHARD MILLE RM 56-02 SAPPHIRE

Limited edition of 10 pieces in sapphire.
CALIBER RM56-02: manual winding tourbillon movement with hours, minutes
Dimensions : 50.50 x 42.70 x 16.75 mm.
MAIN FEATURES
POWER RESERVE
Circa 38 hours (±10%).
BASEPLATE IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM
The baseplate has been finished in grade 5 titanium, a biocompatible, highly corrosion-resistant and remarkably rigid
alloy, which enables the gear train to function effortlessly. The alloy is 90%titanium, 6%aluminium and 4%vanadium.
This combination further increases its mechanical properties, which explains its frequent use in the aerospace,
aeronautical and automobile industries.
The skeletonized baseplate has been subjected to intensive and complete validation tests to optimize their resistance
capacities.
BARREL, TOURBILLON AND CENTER BRIDGES IN SAPPHIRE
The tourbillon, barrel and center bridges are made from sapphire crystal.
The rhomboid crystalline structure of synthetic sapphire crystal Al2O3 has a high melting point of 2,303 Kelvin and a
linear-expansion minimal thermal coefficient (6 x 10-6), which combined offer exceptional stability even in the most
extreme conditions. Its resistance to abrasion is also eight times greater than that of steel.
CABLE-SUSPENSION MECHANISM
The baseplate of the RM 56-02 is attached to the case by a single braided steel cable, with a diameter of just 0.35 mm.
The cable is held taut by a tensioners (located at 9 o’clock) and pulleys, which act like pylons positioned at the four
corners of the movement. The cable is fixed just near the 3 o'clock position.
TENSION INDICATOR
Located below 12 o'clock, a separate indicator allows the visual inspection of the cable tension. A titanium lever with
an indicator arrow ensures that one can visually control that the cable is operating within designated norms.
FREE SPRUNG BALANCE WITH VARIABLE INERTIA
A free sprung balance with variable inertia and a terminal-curve spring (originally designed for pocket watches)
guarantees greater reliability in case of impacts and perfect centering of the tourbillon’s balance wheel, thus providing
better chronometric results over time.
FAST ROTATING BARREL (6 hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours)
This type of barrel has the following advantages:
- The phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion is significantly diminished and performance is thus enhanced,
- It provides an excellent delta of the mainspring curve with a power-reserve/performance/regularity ratio.
BARREL PAWL WITH PROGRESSIVE RECOIL
This device permits an appreciable winding gain (circa 20 %), especially during the start of winding.
It also promotes the even distribution of the mainspring’s internal tension.
WINDING BARREL TEETH AND CENTRE-WHEEL PINION WITH CENTRAL INVOLUTE PROFILE
The central involute profile of the winding barrel teeth provides an optimal pressure angle of 20°, which promotes
effective rotary motion and compensates for possible variations in the operation of the going train. This, in turn,
ensures excellent torque transmission and a distinct improvement in performance.
SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE BRIDGES
This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected
by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
OTHER FEATURES
- Movement dimensions: 24.65 mm x 24.87 mm
- Thickness: 6.7 mm
- Tourbillon diameter: 10.50 mm
- Balance diameter: 10.00 mm
- Number of jewels: 19
- Balance: in Glucydur, with 2 arms and 4 setting screws
- Moment of inertia: 11.50 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53°
- Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
- Balance spring: in ELINVAR by Nivarox®
- Shock absorbers: Kif Elastor by KE 160 B28
- Barrel shafts: in nickel-free Chronifer (DIN x 46 Cr13 + S), with the following characteristics: stainless, non-magnetic,
tempered.
CASE
The entire case - front bezel, caseband and back bezel of the RM 56-02 are cut and milled from solid blocks of sapphire.
Sapphire is known as a particularly scratch-resistant material with a hardness of 1800 Vickers, created from aluminium
oxide (Al2O3). It is transparent thanks to its molecular composition.
The machining of such components was the biggest challenge faced by Richard Mille Watches, a challenge made all
the more difficult as the sapphire machining process is exceptionally delicate.
Although extremely tough, sapphire does not allow for even the slightest error during milling and cutting. Creating
a case of this quality took over 1000 hours of machining, of which 430 hours were spent on pre-forming the case
components and 350 hours on polishing the whole watchcase. For excellent optical properties, the front bezel and the
back bezel have been treated with an anti-glare coating.
The tripartite case is water resistant to 30 meters, ensured by two Nitril O-ring seals. The case is assembled with
24 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in 316L stainless steel.
SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE CASE
This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected
by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
FLANGE
In titanium, with a black galvanic treatment and index filled with an approved luminescent material.
FRONT AND BACK BEZELS
In sapphire (1,800 Vickers) with anti-glare coating (on both sides)
Thickness: 2.50 mm
STRAP IN AEROSPACE NANO®
The partnership between Biwi SA and Richard Mille has led to the development of a material that uses the latest
nanotechnology to provide unparalleled resistance and transparency: Aerospace Nano®.
The nano-strengthening properties of this innovative material are generated during its production. Its elastic behavior
and natural water-resistance give it a silky feel and provide optimal comfort.
FINISHING
MOVEMENT
- Hand-polished beveling
- Hand-polished locking-sections
- Microblasted milled sections
- Lapped and polished contact points
- Burnished pivots
STEEL PARTS
- Wire-drawn and microblasted surfaces
- Hand-polished beveling
- Drawn outer faces
SAPPHIRE PARTS
- Ribbed centre bridges with opaque indentations, polished on both sides then treated with an anti-reflective coating
GEAR WHEELS
- Concave chamfering with a diamond tool
- Circular-decorated faces
- Gilding (before cutting the teeth)
- Minimal corrections to preserve the geometry of the wheels and their performance

TOURBILLON RM 57-01 PHOENIX AND DRAGON- JACKIE CHAN

Richard Mille releases a jewelry creation in the form of a new tourbillon, the RM 57-01 Phoenix and Dragon-Jackie Chan.
The Phoenix, a supernatural bird, was commonly referred to as the ‘King of Birds’ embodying the five virtues of benevolence, righteousness, propriety, wisdom, and sincerity as well as being symbolic for the Empress. It was known never to harm either a single insect nor blade of grass, eating and drinking nothing but bamboo seeds and sweet spring water. The dragon has always appeared in a magical variety of forms; long or short bodied, small or gigantic in size. Its nature could be both secretive yet active, and it inhabited all areas of the universe from the heights above to the depths below. Since they were able to travel between the skies and earth, dragons were considered the mounts of heavenly deities.
The Phoenix and Dragon are two of the ‘Four Supernatural Spirits’; therefore it is believed that seeing a Phoenix and Dragon together is symbolic for great fortuitousness and luck. Created from 3N rose gold, these legendary figures inhabiting the interior of the movement are carved and incised entirely by hand. Special miniature tools needed to be made for the specific artistry required in the physical realization of these two creatures. To increase the realism of these special animals, a long and painstaking process of hand finished micro painting was executed, also including the unseen parts of these two marvelous entities.
The entire movement follows all the philosophies of Richard Mille with its baseplate of PVD treated titanium, double winding barrels and a power reserve of 48 hours, indicated by a red line between 10 and 11 o’clock. The movement is given extra protection by a torque-limiting crown to protect the watch from possible overwinding.
The RM 57-01 Phoenix and Dragon will be available in a strictly limited edition of 15 pieces in 18K white or red gold.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS OF THE TOURBILLON RICHARD MILLE RM 57-01 PHOENIX AND DRAGON-JACKIE CHAN

CALIBER RM57-01: manual winding tourbillon movement with hours, minutes and power reserve indicator.
Dimensions : 50.00 x 42.70 x 14.15 mm.
MAIN FEATURES
POWER RESERVE
Circa 48 hours (±10%). This function is displayed using a newly designed differential power reserve system indicated
by a red line on a moving disc located between 10 and 11 o’clock.
BASEPLATE AND BRIDGES MADE OF GRADE 5 TITANIUM
These components in grade 5 titanium provide the whole assembly great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness
which is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train.
The skeletonized baseplate and the bridges have been subjected to intensive and complete validation tests to optimize
their resistance to stress.
PHOENIX AND DRAGON ADORN THE MOVEMENT
The Phoenix, a supernatural bird, was commonly referred to as the ‘King of Birds’ embodying the five virtues of
benevolence, righteousness, propriety, wisdom, and sincerity as well as being symbolic for the Empress. The dragon has
always appeared in a magical variety of forms; long or short bodied, small or gigantic in size. Its nature could be both
secretive yet active, and it inhabited all areas of the universe from the heights above to the depths below. Since they were
able to travel between the skies and earth, dragons were considered the mounts of heavenly deities. The Phoenix and
Dragon are two of the “Four Supernatural Spirits”; therefore it is believed that seeing a Phoenix and Dragon together is
symbolic for great fortuitousness and luck.
Created from 3N rose gold, these legendary figures inhabiting the interior of the movement are carved and incised
entirely by hand. Special miniature tools needed to be made for the specific artistry required in the physical realization
of these two creatures. To increase the realism of these special animals, a long and painstaking process of hand finished
micro painting was executed, also including the unseen parts of these two marvelous entities
FREE SPRUNG BALANCE WITH VARIABLE INERTIA
The free-sprung balance provides better reliability in the event of shocks, movement assembly and disassembly. It also
guarantees better chronometric results over an extended period of time. The regulator index is eliminated and a more
accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 small adjustable weights located directly on the balance.
BARREL PAWL WITH PROGRESSIVE RECOIL
This device permits a profitable winding gain (circa 20 %), especially during the winding start. It is also helpful in the
distribution of the mainspring’s internal tension.
SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE BRIDGES
This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected
by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
OTHER CHARACTERISTICS
- Movement dimensions: 32.20 x 29.00 mm
- Thickness : 5.17 mm
- Tourbillon diameter: 12.30 mm
- Balance wheel diameter: 10.00 mm
- Jewels: 21, set in white gold chatons
- Balance: Glucydur, 2 arms, 4 setting screws, moment of inertia 11.50 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53º
- Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
- Balance spring: ELINVAR by Nivarox®
- Shock protection: KIF Elastor KE 160 B28
- Barrel shaft: in nickel-free chronifer (DIN x 46 Cr 13 + S) with the following characteristics: stainless- antimagnetic -
suitable for tempering.
CASE
In the world of horology, the cases of Richard Mille watches are currently considered as the most difficult to manufacture.
This tripartite tonneau-shaped case is fully curved, which enables the watch to be ergonomic and comfortable, yet time
consuming during its production and requiring a high level of quality control. These integral front and back curves are
an essential part of the Richard Mille watchcase and demand ultimate precision and accuracy for their perfect execution.
The front bezel and caseband have to be perfectly and delicately assembled to prevent the sapphires from any damage.
Themanufacturing specifications required to achieve this required one year of research and development. The characteristic
tonneau shape of the RM 57-01 requires no less than 47 stamping and 21 striking operations. The machining lasts 4 hours
and 255 milling procedures are required to produce a single RM 57-01 case with a further day spent on finishing which
entails grinding, satin brushing and polishing.
The tripartite case is water-resistant to 50 meters thanks to two Nitril O-ring seals. It is assembled using 20 grade 5
titanium spline screws and abrasion-resistant washers in 316L stainless steel.
SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE CASE
This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These types of screws are therefore
unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
TORQUE LIMITING CROWN
This additional security system prevents from accidental overwinding, which could cause damage to the winding stem
or place extreme pressure on the mainspring barrel.
INTERIOR FLANGES
Upper and lower flanges in black grade 5 titanium.
CRYSTAL
Bezel side: in sapphire (1,800 Vickers) with anti-glare coating (on both sides)
Thickness: 1.50 mm
Case back: in sapphire with anti-glare coating (on both sides)
Thickness: 1.20 mm in the centre and 2.04 mm at the outer edges
FINISHING
MOVEMENT
- Anglage and polishing by hand
- Hand-polished lock-points
- Microblasted milled sections
- Lapped and polished contact points
- Burnished pivots
- PVD coating
STEEL PARTS
- Microblasted surfaces
- Satin brushed surfaces
- Hand-polished beveling
- Drawn sections
WHEELS
- Concave chamfering with a diamond tool
- Circular-decorated faces
- Surface treatment or rhodium plating (before cutting the teeth)
- Minimal corrections to preserve the geometry of the wheels and their performance

[peyot]

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