Jaeger-leCoultre не относится к тем компаниям, которые приготовили много новинок для выставки в Гонконге. Практически новинка всего одна - Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater:
Цитата:
Each year since 2012, Jaeger-LeCoultre has been offering women a succession of cherished rendezvous by revealing new models from its emblematic collection. Following on from the Tourbillon, Celestial and Perpetual Calendar watches infused with the artistic and horological creativity of the Grande Maison, comes a model powerfully evoking watchmaking tradition. This first minute repeater to make its entrance to a feminine Jaeger-LeCoultre collection results from ten years of development and is instilled with the age-old wisdom of the preciously preserved skills nurtured within the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre.
The Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater watch achieves a perfect blend of aesthetics and technical excellence, thereby confirming its place within the sphere of Fine Watchmaking. Adorned with an ivy motif, it cultivates the power of the imagination and a legendary aura in order to give time its rightful place.
Heir to the most sophisticated timepieces
While the beauty of this new opus undoubtedly stems from the craftsmanship involved in its making, it is also apparent in the very intent behind its creation. For Jaeger-LeCoultre, absolute invention is a guiding principle that is applied through investing in intelligent content as well as formal expression. In keeping with the spirit of the Grande Maison, it was thus essential to endow the Rendez-Vous collection with all the latest in-house inventions, and to do so without the slightest compromise.
As a creation in its own right, the Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater watch required the development of a new Calibre 942A. This extremely accurate automatic movement beats at a cadence of 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a 43-hour power reserve. By way of reminder, only the exceptional Hybris Mechanica 11 – Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon piece – can claim to associate this device with a minute repeater function.
Calibre 942A was designed to adapt to a small 39 mm case which accommodates what is generally regarded as the supreme horological complication. The interpretation provided by the Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater combines precision with remarkable functionality, ensuring that this rendevzous is a source of genuine pleasure.
Under the spell of a delightfully feminine sound
In watchmaking culture, striking watches hold an exceptional de facto position. The Manufacture has made the minute repeater one of its favourite themes through various timepieces that haveendlessly explored the facets of this sophisticated complication. The aim here is to obtain the most regular melody, unfailing reliability and precision, as well as the purest possible sound.
On the Hybris Mechanica Grande Sonnerie watch, traditional hammers have been replaced by trebuchet hammers in order to ensure optimal transmission of energy to the gongs. In its turn, the Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater watch is fitted with two patented trebuchet hammers which strike two crystal gongs connected to the sapphire crystal harder and just once, producing a loudspeaker effect.
In addition, the new Rendez-Vous is also equipped with a silent regulator to reduce any peripheral sound disturbance of the mechanism. Only the sound of the minute repeater can be heard. It has been re-worked by a master watchmaker with a musical ear who has modified its mechanical oscillations in order to produce a lower decibel sound. Warmer, richer, sweeter, inherently feminine – the melody played by the Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater stirs the heartstrings and the ear in unison. This is a delicate balancing act that calls for highly refined expertise in the field of acoustic theory as well as finely tuned sensitivity.
An ingenious and useful pushbutton
In order to keep the watch as slim as possible while maintaining a pure, smooth aesthetic line, the Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater is operated by a single pushbutton replacing the traditional repeater slide system. A major improvement compared to classic minute repeaters is that this model is equipped with a security system which ensures that even if the pushbutton is pressed again while the minute repeater is already in action, the mechanism does not start working again – thereby preventing any damage to the movement.
Pure tradition
With 180 skills exercised under its roof, the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre is pursuing the original intentions of its founder, Antoine LeCoultre, who made it his duty to manufacture every part of the watches that left his workshops himself. Remaining true to this approach has earned Jaeger-LeCoultre acknowledged legitimacy in the rare skills that preside over the creation and production of exceptional timepieces.
In line with the governing philosophy of the Grande Maison, each skill successively devoted to crafting the dial or case of the Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater is executed in the appropriate manner. On the white gold dial – first adorned with a sunburst guilloché motif – the master enameller delicately uses a brush to apply pigments in the form of metal oxides. Several firings in an oven at extreme temperatures are required in order to reveal the delicate blue that perfectly reproduces the night sky above the Vallée de Joux, bathed in moonlight.
Variations on the theme of gemsetting
There are moments of grace in this valley, which has seen the birth of brilliant inventions and inspires a devotion to watchmaking unlike anywhere else on earth. While the climate here is harsh and nature may be tamed only by those who show due respect, it also provides moments of striking beauty. Such is the case during the first frosts covering every tree and shrub with an iridescent mantle. It is this very moment that the master gemsetter has captured and immortalised by adorning the ivy leaves with a snow setting – a technique invented by the Grande Maison. Different size diamonds are placed one after another, side by side, completely covering the gold surface. Thus huddled together next to each other as if under a freezing north wind, the gems stud the delicate plant motif with their luminous imprint.
Two rows of diamonds on the bezel and pushpiece echo this precious jewellery craftsmanship. In keeping with the signature codes of the Rendez-Vous collection, this classic, refined gem-setting continues on the lugs, the sides of the case and right the way to the crown which is also decorated like some delicate jewel, making a total of 548 diamonds (including the 255 diamonds adorning the dial).
The Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater is made of 18-carat white gold. Presented on a satin bracelet, it is water resistant to 30 metres and meets all the exacting requirements that make the Grande Maison a major exponent of the art of Fine Watchmaking and Grande Complication horology.
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К сожалению, на пресс-презентацию мне попасть не удалось, поэтому только фотография в витрине:
Характеристики:
Movement:
• Automatic, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 942A
• 28,800 vibrations per hour
• 43-hour power reserve
Functions:
• Hours, minutes, minute repeater
Dial:
• white gold, sunburst guilloché motif, blue enamel and snow setting on ivy leaves
Hands:
• Hours and minutes: floral type
Crown:
• 1 crown to wind the watch as well as adjust the hours and minutes
Case :
• ø39mm in 18-carat white gold
• Soldered lugs
• Polished finish
• 548 diamonds (2.3 carats)
• Sapphire crystal
• Water-resistant to 30 metres
Strap and buckle:
• satin strap with folding clasp
Reference:
Q35034E1 RENDEZ-VOUS IVY MINUTE REPEATER (Ø39)
Во всем остальном стенд повторял SIHH. Великолепная Hybris Artistica, 11-я Hybris Mechanica, столик часовщика с образцами эмали разной техники, мастер-класс по сборке-разборке. Девушка еще перед стендом вниз головой висела и шампанское разливала в день открытия)) Ну и как полагается немного истории.
01.10.2014, 14:55
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