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Four patents are pending for the calibre 1990 inventive features
1. The instantaneous retrograde system
The minutes cam alone determines when the hands for the minutes and the hours fly back. The retrograde action of both hands is thus synchronised at noon and at midnight.
N° 706 767
(54) Device governing the mechanism for a retrograde indication
(57) This invention concerns the control mechanism for a retrograde indication meant for a horological movement. The device consists of a first cam (2) and a second cam (5) as well as a first rack (3) and a second rack (6), the first rack (3) being held against the first cam (2) and the second rack (6) held against the second cam (5). The first cam (2) is set so as to free the first rack (3) at a first predetermined time to allow the first rack (3) to rotate through a first defined arc; the second cam (5) is likewise set so as to free the second rack (6) at a second predetermined time, allowing the second rack (6) to travel through a second defined arc. The device includes a release mechanism (7) governed by the first rack (3) and acting upon the second rack (6) so that at the first predetermined time when the first cam (2) releases the first rack (3), the second rack (6) is released simultaneously. This invention also concerns a horological mechanism incorporating such a device.”
2. The collet
The collet fixing the spring to the balance staff is made in lightweight titanium to improve the isochronism of the balance. Titanium’s weight and volume match those of the other materials in the regulating organ, making the collet ideal for use in a tourbillon.
N° 706 846
(54) Collet for a balance-and-spring regulating organ
(57) The invention is of a collet (4) for a balance-and-spring regulating organ to be fitted in a mechanical watch movement. The collet (4) is made to be set onto the balance staff of the regulating organ and hold the inside end of the balance-spring. The collet is wholly or in part made either of titanium or an alloy thereof or of aluminium or alloy thereof. The collet has flat planes (12, 13) on either side along its axis. The collet made thus has a lower weight than a conven tional collet and can be beneficially mounted on the regulating organ in a tourbillon carriage.
3. The multi-carriage tourbillon
The tourbillion is made up of two carriages, one inside the other. As they rotate they form a Maltese Cross every 15 seconds. The tourbillon has a Vacheron escapement and sprung balance. The escape wheel is made of silicon with a diamond-like coating, while the diamond pallet stones have a very low coefficient of friction.
N° 2 741 150
(54) Multi-carriage tourbillon, horological movement and timepiece comprising the multi-carriage tourbillon.
(57) The invention is of a timepiece comprising a multi-carriage tourbillon in an horological movement, the multi-carriage tourbillon consisting of an outside carriage (7) and an inside carriage (6) that pivots within the outside carriage (7). The outer carriage (7) has at least one distinctive part (18) and the inner carriage (6) also has at least one distinctive part. In at least one relative position of the inside carriage (6) and the outside carriage (7) one distinctive part of the outer carriage combines with a distinctive part (15) of the inner carriage to periodically form a particular shape visible from the outside of the timepiece.
4. The lever
The silicon lever can be fitted with movable pallet stones so that the watchmaker can adjust them as in a conventional pallet lever. The diamond coating of the lever makes it stronger and more resistant to wear, while the friction between the fork and impulse pin is markedly reduced.
N° de publication 706 756
(54) The lever for a horological escapement
(57) This invention involves a pallet lever (2) for an horological escapement consisting of a fork (25), two arms (21), each with a seating (27) for a pallet stone (22). The lever (2) also has a securing device on each of the two arms (21) consisting of an elastic structure (50) that is arranged to press against the pallet stone (22) when it is in its seating (27). The pallet stone (22) can thus be adjusted and fixed in a chosen position in its seating.
TECHNICAL DATA
Maître Cabinotier retrograde armillary tourbillon
Reference 91990/000G-9882
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Caliber 1990
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
35 mm (15’’’ ¾) diameter, 10 mm thick
Approximately 65 hours of power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
299 components
45 jewels
NAC treatment
Indications Instantaneous retrograde hours
Instantaneous retrograde minutes
Small seconds at 9 o’clock on tourbillon carriage
2-axis armillary tourbillon
Case 18K white gold
45.7 mm diameter, 20.06 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)
Dials Hours/minutes dial: silver-colored, sun satin-finished, 18K white gold applied hour-markers, painted minute-track
Seconds dial: silver-colored, sun satin-finished, painted minute track
Hands: titanium
Strap Black Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp 18K white gold triple-blade folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped
Unique timepiece
"Pièce Unique" engraved on caseback
