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Как делаются часы
Starting with pencil and paper, Don will sketch out various designs with proper proportion. After which he transfered the sketches to the CAD (Computer Aided Drawing). From the CAD, visualization is easier and more accurate.
After that he proceeded to workout the movement. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1016616.jpg A few of Don's computer renderings of his new creation ... http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...on/anigifB.gif http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...on/anigifA.gif After completing the design and compiled the Bill of Materials (BOM), he proceeded to purchase materials. Once the materials were in his atelier, fabrication began.... Fabrication http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998081.jpg It starts with just two stress released brass blanks for the plate and bridges. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998086.jpg Those blanks get riddled with holes, a total of 101 holes in 19 different diameters. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998091.jpg Some of those holes are then threaded... http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998096.jpg Then a little lathe work to remove the excess metal... http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998101.jpg It is like making a sculpture, hammer and chisel, just remove the material that doesn’t belong to David and leave the wanted. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998106.jpg Preparation of the steady pins .... http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998111.jpg To keep everything in its proper place, steady pins are pressed fitted into the designated holes... http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998116.jpg The bridges (up till now were in a single piece of material) were cut into individual pieces. After fitting the jewels, the train wheels were first mounted. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998121.jpg Next is to fabricate the anchor bridge, drilled all the holes and milled the top side. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998126.jpg http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998131.jpg After milling the bottom side, turning out the part. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998136.jpg The anchor bridge. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998141.jpg Here you can just see the anchor bridge jeweled and mounted under the balance wheel. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998146.jpg Drilling the stem hole... http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998151.jpg Before we can mount the winding train we need to make the wheel studs. Above is turning the stud from a brass rod… http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998156.jpg drilling the screw holes… http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998161.jpg and making the countersinks to finish the stud. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998166.jpg Now the studs are mounted. Only the ratchet wheel is to be added. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998171.jpg On the dial side the keyless works has been made and assembled ... http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998176.jpg the motion works held in place with the cover. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998181.jpg Now that the movement is fully assembled and works, the next step is decoration. Before the decoration process, the components were disassembled.... http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998186.jpg All the steel parts that have been pressed into the plate, such as the axles were removed otherwise they will be destroyed during the process of plating... http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998191.jpg The bare plate and bridges. Источник: http://home.watchprosite.com/show-fo...ti-499886/s-0/ |
Decoration
Now that the parts for the Dresdener Regulator are made the decoration of the plate and bridges will be performed. Start by forming the final shape of the bridges. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998196.jpg The perlage is done at overlapping positions with a rotating tool. However, the surface needs to be prepared so no blemishes will be seen amongst the “pearls”. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998201.jpg The first row of “pearls” is placed overlapping slightly less than half of their diameter. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998206.jpg The second row is finished and the third just begin. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998211.jpg The dial side perlage is finished. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998216.jpg http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998221.jpg http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998226.jpg Now it is time to finish the bridges. Firstly, cleaning up the edges. The picture below showed the filing patterns left behind by a coarser file. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998231.jpg Here after the second-cut filing and brushing. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998236.jpg For the bridge beveling, here are the tools used. Starting from the right are the very fine flat and rounded files, followed by the super fine flat and rounded files, Degusit files (synthetic ruby) and lapping films (in various grades) to achive mirror polish. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998241.jpg The bridge beveling starts by forming the bevel with a very fine file and cleaning that up with a super fine file. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998246.jpg Then the Degussit files and lapping till mirror finish with 3 different grades of lapping film. The picture shown is after the 9 micron lapping film. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998251.jpg Continue till the bevel is perfectly polished. This is just missing the final high luster polish with diamantine. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998256.jpg Next is to cut the jewel countersinks… http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998261.jpg followed by polishing with diamantine on a wood polishing tool. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998266.jpg The bridges are screwed to a fixture for the côtes de Genève process. Note that the surfaces are almost polished so that no blemishes will be seen through the côtes. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998271.jpg Côtes de Genève are made using a slightly inclined tool that ensures a distinct line at one side and then moving the workpiece in a linear pattern under the tool. Here 3 stripes are done. You can see the distinct line at the right and the curves running out to the left. The next stripe will cover that ragged edge to the left. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998276.jpg 7 côtes were done ... http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998281.jpg The finished barrel bridge. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998286.jpg http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998291.jpg http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998296.jpg The dial frame is treated in the same way as the bridges; polished bevels and then côtes de Genève. The same plating will also be given to the watch, dial side and movement side to give a uniform decoration. Here initial filing of the bevel… http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998301.jpg followed by the same 5 intermediate steps as with the bridge beveling. The final polishing with diamantine… http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998306.jpg followed by the côtes de Genève. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998311.jpg Here are all the pieces to be plated in ruthenium-anthrazit. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998316.jpg Ready to ship off to the plater... http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...age.998321.jpg After a couple of days, the parts are back in a nice warm charcoal color. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1017386.jpg http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1017381.jpg http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1017376.jpg http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1017371.jpg The re-assembly will start after some more parts, like the wheels, are finished in the next installment. Источник: http://home.watchprosite.com/show-fo...ti-501361/s-0/ |
More Parts Finishing
Parts finishing continues with the wheels. Here we see the wheels as delivered by ETA, the form stamped, the teeth cut and then flash gold plated to prevent corrosion; quality high volume production, but not pretty. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026406.jpg First the wheels are removed from the pinions in order to be able to work on them. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026411.jpg The intermediate wheel mounted on a fixture ready to start the work, note the ugly rounded corners of the spokes. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026416.jpg 1) Square up all the corners http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026421.jpg 2) Bevel all the edges with a fine file. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026426.jpg 3) 4) 5) Finer finishing up to polished bevels http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026431.jpg Here the seconds wheel. In the pictures these pieces all look nice and big, easy to work on, but take your watch and take a good look at the real size of the seconds wheel, for example. Now imagine the size of the tools and the care needed to work on that piece! http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026436.jpg 6) Cerclage (French "cerclage" meaning an encircling) with finishing film. The wheel is held in place on the lathe with double sided tape. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026441.jpg The decorated wheels (with polished bevels and cerclage) are ready for plating. Plating is not just decorative, but prevents the brass from oxidising with time. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026446.jpg 7) Back from rhodium plating. The idea for this watch is to make the decoration the same from the dial side and the movement side. Both the dial and the movement have ruthenium plated Côtes de Genève and there are rhodium plated hands and wheels. Curious to see how this works when the watch is completed. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026451.jpg Now more work for the dial side, making the hands. The hands are cut out roughly from a piece of hammered 18k gold sheet. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026456.jpg The hour-hand formed with a fine file and degussit stone. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026461.jpg The hour and minute hands are ready for finer finishing and final polishing. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026466.jpg The hour hand polished, there is still some residue of the polish on certain places. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026471.jpg The seconds-hand is ready for polishing. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026476.jpg Now the three hands are ready for rhodium plating. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026481.jpg Of course the hands want to be presented before a nice dial. Here the raw slate dial, slate glued to a brass support with the dial feet. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026486.jpg After filing to thickness and polishing the pyrite speckles and the figuration in the stone is brought to the fore. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026491.jpg The dial is printed using transfer printing. The pattern to be printed is engraved on a steel plate. The ink is smeared on this plate and then the surface is cleaned off using a sharp spatula which leaves ink in the engraved recesses of the steel plate. This ink is then picked up and transferred to the dial with a gelatine tampon, thus “transfer printing”. According to Don, he went to one of the few remaining specialists in Switzerland who still does this work by hand, one piece at a time. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026496.jpg The case Don is working on now is a prototype in brass. Will present just one little part of the case making, making the crown. The rest of the case and the buckle is made similarly. Starting from a cast blank the piece is turned and/or filed by hand to its final size and shape after which the surface finishing, brushing or polishing is applied. This is exactly the same procedure that Don uses for the final case in gold. Here is the crown as it has come back from casting. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026501.jpg After cutting of most of the sprue (the sprue is the channel through which the molten metal is poured into the casting mold) the rest will be turned true as a support for turning. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026506.jpg http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026511.jpg Here the body of the crown is cleaned up. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026516.jpg Now chucked up by the sprue the inside of the crown can be turned. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026521.jpg The water tightness of the crown gasket depends on the inside being turned smooth and to dimensions. A ring will be pressed in later to hold the gasket in place. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026526.jpg The threaded hole for the stem is drilled and tapped and the concave surface is polished. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026531.jpg And finally the end of the body brushed concentrically… http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026536.jpg and the edge brushed straight. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026541.jpg The completed prototype crown will now be gold plated, the final crown will, of course, be solid gold as will be the case. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026546.jpg For the crown this goes relatively quickly as all can be done on the lathe, this is less than half a day’s work. The total time for all the case work is about a week of filing and finishing by hand. Here the results after gold plating in 5N red gold. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1026551.jpg Screws are another interesting story. Although he purchases the standard screws he still needs to finish them and all the shoulder screws and other non-standards screws he makes. Here we see the click screw in the lathe ready to be parted off. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1031266.jpg Here is a handful of screws Don made before hardening and polishing. Note there are 2 of each, one is used while working on the movement and may end up being screwed in and out many times, the other will be installed when the movement is finally assembled, just once. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1031261.jpg Will spare you the pictures of screw polishing. There is not much to see and many steps. Take a factory made screw and ...
automatic-screw-making machine, the manual finishing seems excessive at about 15 minutes per screw. But wow do those screws shine, see the difference yourself below. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1031251.jpg At this point, Don has all the parts ready. In the next instalment he will reassemble the movement and case up the finished watch. Here just a little teaser: http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1031256.jpg Stay tuned for the last installment! Источник: http://home.watchprosite.com/show-fo...ti-503136/s-0/ |
Part 4, The Final Assembly With all the decorated parts back from plating Don continues by remounting the wheels on the pinions. Any out-of-flatness must be corrected, which makes for much work. Here we see the going train in place. With the barrel and train bridges in place. Add the winding train and click (the barrel and winding intermediate screws will be replaced with correctly finished ones later). A first try at fitting in the case. The stem has not yet been cut to length and is way too long. From the dial side. We notice that the keyless works has not enjoyed any finishing up ‘til now. The buckle Half of the keyless work finished, the other half waiting anxiously to be brought up to snuff. Now it is time to mount the slate dial and ruthenium plated dial frame on the movement. The dial frame is held on the dial itself with 3 little feet. They are then mounted on the movement as a unit. Another fitting test in the case. Now it is time to mount the hands... Don had to ream the holes in the hands a bit, so the hands are going to have to be repolished and plated again in the future. The cannon for the seconds hand. 0.8mm diameter, 1.20mm long, the hole for the seconds wheel axle is 0.25mm in diameter. Now with the seconds hand mounted. Before closing up the case a little hop on the timing machine. This looks acceptable. http://ml.watchprosite.com/img/watch...ge.1040571.jpg Now cased up in the prototype case I think you will agree that the combination of gray ruthenium plating on the movement and dial with the red gold case is magnificent. Don’s attempt to unify the decoration on the dial and movement sides is quite successful. The horizontal côtes-de-Genève front and back with rhodium hands and wheels works really well. This has been a great story of the making of a one-of-a-kind watch by hand, from start to finish. We thank Don for sharing with us the journey, processes and pictures to help us to better understand his work and time spent from conceptualizing to the finished product. |
*грохот челюсти об пол*
Фантастика! Предыдущие часы у Дона были так себе, а это получилось действительно супер!!! |
Очень красиво! :eek: Как-то непонятно, почему стрелки не цепляются друг за друга (надо полагать, на разной высоте от циферблата), и почему заводная головка без накатки (надо полагать просто забыли :))
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Интересный обзор, спасибо.
P.S. Стрелки ужасные. |
стрелки еще куда ни шло, оригинальные в целом...
у меня вызывает гораздо бОльшие сомнения форма моста колесной передачи, хотелось бы видеть немного другой, стилистически выдержанный контур ... но за обзор безусловно спасибо, очень познавательно! |
Ого!
Очень интересный материал! |
Спасибо, очень интересно!!!
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