Часовой форум Watch.ru - SIHH 2015: Metiers d'Art, вибрирующие бриллианты и пр.

Как всегда, все потрясает. Кстати, в 2014-м году Cartier построил для своих "художественных" мастеров отдельное здание в Ля Шо де Фон и отметил это событие часами выполненными в технике филиграни

Цитата:

Created in the new Maison des Métiers d’Art on site at La Chaux-de-Fonds, the Ronde Louis Cartier Filigree watch reinvents the centuries-old technique of fi ligree using a fi gurative, precious approach. A creative heritage method that is testament to Cartier’s mission to perpetuate forgotten crafts and expertise such as granulation in 2013.
The ancient art of fi ligree appeared in Egypt in earliest antiquity. Its invention is attributed to the Sumerians in around 3000 B.C. before being developed in India, Tibet, Greece and Iran and much later in Portugal where it reached a new level of excellence.
As diaphanous as lace, filigree is a technique of goldsmithing that uses gold or silver wires soldered together in order to create an openwork grid with a desired motif. For Cartier, the challenge consisted not only in adapting it to the restrained dimensions of a watch case but also elevating this craft by opting for a very precious selection of jewellery materials such as gold, platinum and diamonds. The craftsmen of the Maison des Métiers d’Art worked with beaten gold and platinum micro-wires that required specifi c equipment specially created on site. Twisted, rolled, curled and cut into little rings, these wires were assembled using the “openwork” filigree technique that allows the elements to be attached on the sides but not to the base. Over a month of work was required to create this lacework watch that is home to a pair of panthers whose black-lacquer-spotted coats are literally woven from fine filigree elements of gold and platinum set with diamonds. Sovereigns draped in brocade, the two panthers look at each other with their cut-to-measure emerald eyes. This delicate feline tête-à-tête is set against the background of a starry sky and surrounded by a middle pavé-set with diamonds, which is partly covered by the motif. This exceptional work of art brings together numerous kinds of craftsmanship, from gemstone-setting to goldsmithing, from jewellery-making to watchmaking, from engraving to lacquering. A thousand actions that give Cartier’s emblematic animal a rare preciousness with a balance, grace and absolute refi nement that are as ethereal as the finest lace.

Цитата:

Часы Ballon Bleu de Cartier Serti Vibrant, 42 мм, механизм с ручным заводом, калибр 430 MC. Корпус из белого золота 18 карат с родиевым покрытием, 210 бриллиантов классической огранки общим весом 3,38 карата, рифленая заводная головка с сапфиром в форме кабошона. Циферблат из белого золота 18 карат с NAC‑покрытием, 123 сияющих бриллианта классической огранки общим весом 3,46 карата. Стрелки в форме мечей из вороненой стали. Браслет из белого золота 18 карат с родиевым покрытием, 985 бриллиантов классической огранки общим весом 8,82 карата, размер запястья 175 мм. Высота корпуса: 14,05 мм. Водонепроницаемость до 3 бар (30 метров). Ограниченная пронумерованная серия из 20 экземпляров.

Чтобы получить представление, как бриллианты вибрируют и переливаются - посмотрите две ссылки - официальный ролик Cartier и запись, сделанную одним из журналистов.

CARTIER : Ballon Bleu de Cartier Serti Vibrant

Cartier Serti Vibrant

И пара живых фотографий:

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